Amazing Borneo

When Jason and I began to plan our excursion months and months ago, the most exciting part was our trip to Kota Kinabalu to hike Mt. Kinabalu - the tallest mountain in Malaysia, and the tallest Via Ferreta in the world. When I went to Malaysia back in Decemeber, we had looked into the hike (as recommended by a friend) but it required a little more planning ahead of time and a lot more money so we skipped out. When Jason and I began talking and he expressed his love for adventure, I was eager to recommend the trip that I had placed high on my bucket list! Jason ate it up, although I don't think he really knew what he was getting himself into!

Jason's travel was such a nightmare... throughout a four day span, he flew out of Afghanastan (where he is stationed currently) into Kuwait, made his way to Algeria before he was finally China bound. I was relieved when he made it because I was beginning to think that I was going to be climbing the mountain solo.

Jason and I made our way around Shanghai during our holiday - taking him to all of the important Shanghai spots - the Pedestrian Street, YuYuan, Pearl Market, the Bund, Sheng Sushi, the Former French Concession, ERA show, Qibao watertown, and more! We ate our fair share of street food and Jason made his mark on the city with his dance moves. We hung out with some friends, and just had a fun time! After only a few short days, we were packing our bags and heading to the airport... Malaysia-bound.

lucky to have a nice clear day for the bund

Although I have been to Kuala Lumpur before, I could not have been more excited as we drove into the city. I have such fond memories of tearing up that city with two of my favorite girls! KL was just as I remembered it! We found our hostel quickly and Jason and I set out for our first meal on a quest for the best Thai food. Of course we were not disappointed as we settled for a cozy picnik table tucked just off the road in front of a run-down, dirty, but-sure-to-please Thai shack. It is not secret that one of my favorite things about Malaysia (really Asia in general) is the food, and I was excited that Jason shared the same enthusiasm!

The next day, we made our way around KL... we went to the Towers (but unfortunately, couldn't go up to the observation deck), wandered around the parks, did a little shopping, etc, etc. At night, we checked into the never-ending nightlife, and danced our pants off at just about every bar along the strip while wearing our "party glasses". KL never lets me down!

Finally, it was time for our next stop... Borneo. We boarded another plane and jumped over to the other part of Malaysia near Indonesia to a city called Kota Kinabalu. It is a rather small place, but the interest is rapidly increasing as Mt. Kinabalu is becoming a more popular tourist destination for thrill-seeking travelers! We settled into the first hotel and prepared for the adventure ahead.

The next morning, our guide picked us up and we began our trip to Kinabalu Park into the mountains. What amazing views as we winded and curved through the mountains increasing in altitude. At one point, as we made a sharp curve, the guided pointed into the sky stating that was Mt. Kinabalu, but apologized for the cloudy day.... I guess I didn't really understand until we made our first stop in a tiny village and the cloudy parted just enough to see the tip of Mt. Kinabalu towering into the blue sky. Holy crap that is a tall mountain!

That night, we stayed at a resort and spa at 2000 meters in the mountains. As recommended by the tour company (as not only a ploy to get more money) as a way to adjust our bodies to the altitude. Jason is well adjusted from living in the middle east, but I was thankful for that extra day because I was already feeling the effects in my head and my ears. Early the next morning, we began the climb of a lifetime! It was challenging right from the getgo! Not only was the altitude effecting my head, but it was also effecting my breathing and my stamina. Nearly the entire hike was straight up on rocky, uneven stairs cut into the mountains. Some stairs were so tall that it was a struggle to lift my legs! I kept saying that there should have been a height requirement for those stairs. I kept my pace slow and steady and took frequent breaks as to not pass out from the pressure in my head. Poor Jason could have probably run up and down that mountain twice, but he stayed close and encouraged me from a short distance ahead to keep going when I thought I was going to die right there on the mountain. Along the way, we were able to see interesting plants and some pretty spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and villages and we made some friends as well! Finally, after 4.5 hours and 6 kilometers, a whole lot of sweat and a couple tears, we made it to our next destination - Pendant Hut in the clouds - a cozy little bunk house on the side of the mountain a mere 2.7kilo meters from the summit.

rocky climb

our guesthouse in the clouds

Following some rest and recovery, a rather delicous dinner and a beautiful sunset aside the mountain, we settled into our bunks early, preparing for our very early asend to the summit. I barely blinked an eye before our 2:00 am wake up call came. We jumped out of bed, layered on our clothing and began for yet another journey up the mountain. It was a pitch-black clear night, the stars were still high in the sky and the only thing guiding us up the rocky side was a white rope and the herd of headlamps in front and behind us. It was freezing cold and the wind whipped around us. Exhaustion riding my back, it proved to be yet another challenge to make it to the top (but not as bad as I would have expected), but once we landed on the summit, it was worth it!

photo of the rocky terrain we had to climb up in the dark 

 I was within the first five to make it to the summit (at 4,095.2 meters) in just over 2 hours so I was able to enjoy the view (still plagued by darkness) before the rest of the hikers and the sun made their appearances. I found a rock edge and absorbed the view as the sun peaked over the mountains, painting the sky and grasping everything within its reach for the next two hours. Sunrises (and sunsets) are one of the most amazingly pure beauties of the world. They cannot be altered or taken away, and although the sun rises and sets everyday, rarely do people stop to appreciate the simplistic radiance (guilty.).  

Shortly after sunrise, we began to make our way to the start of the Via Ferreta. Via Ferreta is a series of iron steps, cables and bridges securely fixed into the side of the mountain (I call it rock climbing for dumbies). Although you do not have to be a professional rock climber, the mountain torq was also not for the faint of hearts. Not only does Mt. Kinabalu have Asia's first Via Ferreta, but it is also in the Guinese Book of World Records for the world's tallest beginning at about 3,776 meter above sea level! We recieved a short tutorial the day before on how to use our harness and equiptment, so we were set to go once we arrived to meet our Torq guide. We were the first group to begin out desend on the Via Ferreta and Jason led the way. Although he was freaking out inside, terrified of heights, he was rather calm and collected on the outside! Our guide kept telling up to trust the equiptment, so at one point I released my hands and fell backwards, letting my harness catch me. It was exhilirating and exciting and the most incredible thing I have ever done! Over the next couple hours, we entrusted in the "iron road" as we scaled down, climbed up and snuck around the rock of the cliff. We crossed over tiny tight-rope "bridges", trekked through the jungle and stretched our bodies to the limit.

When we finished, we were back at the Pendant Hut before 10:00 am. A short breakfast and an even short rest, we were packed up and heading back down the mountain to the Park Headquarters. This was the worst part! We were tired from the 10 hours of hiking that we had already done in the last 24 hours, our bodies were sore, we lacked sleep and we were just ready to be done. Jason and I basically ran down all of those uneven steps without any breaks in effort to decend in record timing! After a few short hours (but what seemed like many, many long hours), we made it to the bottom in one very sore piece... 

Side Note: Near the Pendant Hut was another guesthouse with a restaurant that prepared all meals for the hikers each day. Of course there is no other way to get food up to the restaurant than by people transporting it up the mountain on their backs. All along the way of our hike, we saw the workers whose job it is to carry the supplies to the restaurant each day. Many of the workers were little elderly men and women and some were younger, but all of them were responsible for carrying 100 lbs of supplies up 6 days a week in a wooden box on their back with a strap across their forehead for support. It was insane (and of course they put me and my 10 lbs backpack to shame as they passed me)!

Following our descend, we were transported out of the park and back to our resort in Kota Kinabalu's Sutera Harbour. The next day, I could barely move. I am embarrased to say that I took the elevator to go down even one set of stairs. Every muscle from my waist down ached and screamed out in pain with each tiny movement! I welcomed the last couple relaxing days at the resort to lay by the pool and recover (and catch up on some reading).

 Oddly enough, while staying at the resort, we met two Americans from no other place but Michigan! Coincidentally, the father, Doug, was living and working in the Middle East, and the son, Shane, was just finishing a study abroad program in China, and they decided to meet for a father/son holiday in the sun in Borneo, Malaysia! I picked out Shane as he walked outside to the pool wearing a SPARTANS shirt! We had a lot in common with them, and they were great companions for island hopping and bar hopping! We left our legacy in KK as well after we ran into some friends from the hike at a bar in the city, turned the live band into our personal singing show, drank our fair share of long islands and danced the night away in our party glasses!

One last layover in KL before returning back to Shanghai! What an adventure! Malaysia never seises to amazing me each time. We got to eat fantastic food, try new things, climb to new heights and meet some pretty awesome people along the way. I am so grateful that I was able to reunite with Jason and get to know him as we traveled the world. He is such a great guy and a fun travel buddy.

What's up next...

Land of the free, home of the brave....   AMERICA!